Details – System Components

Starter Track.

We fix this aluminium track to provide a level “starting-point” for your installation, and build the insulation panels upwards from here. The track also protects the system by preventing attacks from rodents. It’s always kept above path-level so that any water collecting on the path can’t work up into the system, and the space can be cleaned (e.g. in autumn, when blown leaves might gather there).

You can also see a plastic bead is clipped in place – this gives a slight “bell-cast” effect.

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Verge trim.

Many properties do not feature roof overhangs, so they don’t have traditional soffits or barge boards. Whilst Greenhus can extend the roofline to accommodate the thickness of your external wall insulation, this can be unnecessarily expensive. Instead, we use an industry-specific “verge trim”, manufactured from powder-coated aluminium. It’s sealed before being screwed to your wall, creating an overhang. We insulate up underneath it, meaning the top of your installation is protected. The trim is sized according to the insulation thickness, and has a “drip” so that any water running off the top falls clear of your new façade.

Applying adhesive to the back of your boards.

Your boards are stuck to your walls using manufacturer-supplied adhesive. Greenhus installers use a 10mm notched-trowel to apply the adhesive – the board is then positioned and pressed gently into place, so the individual 10mm deep lines compress to form a uniform 5mm layer across the back of the board.

We then use a mechanical fixing, as you’ll see in the next image.

Hammer fixing.

As well as using adhesive to stick your insulation boards to your wall, we also use a mechanical fixing called a hammer fixing. We drill your substrate, then hammer in the fixing. The principle is similar to a wall plug, except that the expansion of the plug is caused by hammering rather than screwing.

NB For certain non-standard construction types, we will use a screw-fixing instead – Greenhus will establish this at survey stage.

Fixing window and door beads.

We will bead around all openings so that we can create a keen, clean edge. The beads are plastic, so although strong, they won’t deteriorate like some traditional metal beads. Where possible, your Greenhus installers will also take the opportunity to “square-up” any uneven or irregular openings.

Mesh-coat.

With boards securely fixed to the walls and all openings beaded, we now apply a layer of render. We then trowel-in a fibreglass reinforcing mesh before applying a further layer of render. This gives the system considerable strength, protecting it from impact and allowing (e.g.) a ladder to be placed against it for those time you need to clean windows or clear gutters.

Finishing render.

Applying the final render layer requires real skill. The render is supplied pre-mixed in buckets, with a silicone content to provide waterproofing and weather protection. Your final texture is determined by the size of the grains held in suspension in the render mix. The most popular size by far is the 1.5mm grain. This gives a lightly-textured finish that is slightly coarser than traditional sand/cement render. After the render is laid-on, it is scraped back so that one grain’s thickness remains. Your Greenhus installer will then use a special float to bring out the texture to a uniform appearance across your whole façade.

To find out how Greenhus can help you plan a great improvement to your home or business,
complete our Contact Form or call us on 01822 819 911
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